Food + Drink

June 22, 2011

Evan’s Kitchen: Adventures with Mushrooms

More articles by »
Written by: Evan
Tags: , ,

A while back I received a rather pricey bottle of wine from my friend Andrea as a birthday gift. She gave it to me with the caveat that I had to make her dinner to pair with the wine. At first I thought this was a great idea until I remembered: 1. That was totally a sneaky way for Andrea to enjoy not only my cooking but also the wine she just gave me, and  2. She is a vegetarian :(

Ok, calm down you veggie lovers, don’t hate me just yet. I think that vegetarianism is awesome, and I believe we should all try to eat less meat for all the reasons any vegetarian will be overjoyed to talk to you about. The main problem I had was that she had just given me a wine from Burgundy. A deep rich earthy wine best enjoyed with duck, or lamb, or any other sort of meaty dish. Clearly a cucumber salad would not do.

At first I felt her dietary restriction would handcuff my cooking ability, but after some pondering, which may have involved some much cheaper wine, I realised this was an opportunity for me to explore something I never would have done for myself. Trick was, how to create a meal to match the wine without using the crutch of nice big slab of meat? The solution I found was mushrooms.  Their rich earthy flavour would go perfectly with the pinot noir from Burgundy. This was to be a totally new experience for me as I generally hate mushrooms. I’ve forced myself to eat fungus on pizza or in a pasta but it usually resulted in me gagging more than when I have something else mushroom shaped in my mouth.

But in the name of culinary advancement I decided to suck it up (sorry, promise no more BJ puns) and cook me some mushrooms. The dish I created was a marinated portobello mushroom cap served on a wild mushroom cassoluet (aka bean stew).   In the process of shopping for the meal, I discovered the Mycobotique located on Rachel just east of St. Laurent. This is a store dedicated solely to edible fungus. Shelves are lined with bags and jars of dehydrated mushrooms and all things fungus. I highly recommend a visit, even if you are just looking. The enthusiastic clerk introduced me to the exotic world of dried mushrooms, lifting the lids off jars filled with various varieties: lobster, morel, and chanterelle. They released intoxicating aromas of wood, warm earth, and some smokiness. Yum

Back in the kitchen, the dish turned out amazing! The mushroom cap didn’t have any of the slimy mushroom texture I dispise so much! It was rich and chewy with the crispy topping YUMMY! The cassoulet had a smooth full-bodied taste making a very nice pairing with the wine. I had created a successful vegetarian meal that tasted delicious, and had the depth to match a meat lover’s wine. Plus on a personal level, I had expanded my tastes to enjoy some mushrooms, and I can forsee myself having my way with more mushrooms in the future.


About the Author

|Food & Wine Contributor| Food. Fitness. Travel. His three passions, and definitely in that order. When not working in a restaurant, Evan is at home cooking a feast or watching the foodnetwork. To balance his gluttony, he spends his free time training for triathlons and with his man and kitty. Growing up in a southern Ontario village, he moved to Ottawa for university. He lived in Europe for a year before settling in Montreal.



It’s Still Winter. Deal With It.

There’s always that one warm week in March. It gets really really warm and most, if not ALL of that dirty disgusting slushy snow melts, all the soggy cigarette butts smoked over the frigid winter are exposed and Montreal begi...
by Melanie


Tongue Trials 1: Dim Sum

La Maison Kam Fung 1111 St Urbain St Metro Place D’Armes Dim Sum is kinda like the Chinese version of Tapas but way more fun. Bite sized portions of Chinese dishes are served on small plates or in steam baskets that are c...
by Sarah


DISH THIS: Pomegranate And Orange French Toast

When it comes down to a breakfast item, I will 95% of the time pick salty over sweet. Don’t get me wrong, I will never turn down a pancake or french toast or waffle, but I prefer them as a side to my eggs, and cheese and ...
by Erika



  1. Mmmmm… this was SO yummy! You are brilliant!

  2. Rachelle

    Evan, you can cook for me any day! Sounds amazing.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *